Saturday, August 30, 2014

Marais Typic Aug 13

This is a typical house in the marais.  This sea marsh has many canals and many of the homes are only reached by crossing the canal in a small boat. 

This is a lovely area for a drive.  We decided that we would take a boat ride thru the glades for fun.  We stopped in a town called Garette and off we went with Vero and me at the helm.  Well, it turns out that guiding these wide barges is not the easiest of endeavors.  We ricocheted from bank to bank and sometimes turned a full circle.  We had great laughs.  Then the rain started.  We fortunately had taken our raincoats with us as the weather changes literally from minute to minute.  So we pulled over under the leaves of the overhanging trees for shelter when the downpours would hit.  We would sit and wait it out trying to think of songs to sing in the rain.

What fun for "la fete des poules!"



















After our boat ride we went to another town to visit the museum of the marshland.  We learned quite a bit about the migration of birds and a lot about the harvest of oysters, salt and eels.  It was pretty interesting and we had some English headphones to better understand the explanations!  The town was very pretty as well.





Marais Cabane Aug 24


Friends invited us for a visit to the Marais - a sea marsh area.  They have a cabin on the shore of the river marsh.  They go there to relax, fish and enjoy the green countryside.






It was a fun afternoon with a fabulous lunch at their 'cabane'.  The trees are very interesting.  They had cut them down at one time to make room for cattle.  The trees decided they still wanted to grow so they sent out new shoots and voila - the new shape of the trees.  Along the bank Martine and Jean Claude planted weeping willows. Here are some pictures of our outing.







After lunch we took a ride in the boat along the river and canals.  We ended up in a small town called Maille.  We moored the boat and got out for a little walk.  This town or 500 was demolished in 1944 during the war.  Many women and children were killed of the 124 slaughtered.  The village was bombarded and leveled to the ground.  It was rebuilt and remains a small village tucked back in the marsh.





Friday, August 29, 2014

Arcais Aug 13

 Today we decided to take a trip to Marais Poitevin a sea marsh area.  On the way we stopped in the little village of Arcais and took a walk.  In my family back home we used to call these girl outings a "hen party".  So that's what we had - une fete des poules!

I wanted to post this because the town was so pretty.  Here are some pictures.












Rosemary plants are prevalent in this area.  Some are very big and we ran across several that were huge.  I took a picture of the rosemary next to a tree just so you could compare the size.  I LOVE rosemary.








 We had a little picnic before continuing on to the marais.  Bonne Appetite.


Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Cognac Aug 22

Cognac

We met some very nice people at the villa this summer who happened to live in Cognac. So off we went to Cognac for a visit. The town itself didn't have a lot to see but it did have some nice buildings and we were delighted to see our newly made friends again.  Laurent said unless you are involved with the Cognac industry you are on the outside of the circle!  Cecile and Laurent are both teachers and they have 2 children. We had lunch at their house and then went to take a tour of the Tonnellerie—a place that makes wine casks.

http://www.tonnellerie-allary.com/
I was amazed at the amount of hand labor is used to create these beautiful casks. The casks are generally made of French Oak but they also use some oak shipped in from Missouri in America to keep up with their supply and demand! The 'staves' or oak slats are seasoned when they arrive in large stacks outside the building. They are all equally spaced to allow for maximum drying and weathering. Believe it or not, they are air dried for 18-24 months! They use clean well water to irrigate the wood and turn them frequently for proper aging.

The next step is to use a blow drier to remove 3-5% of the humidity from the wood. This allows for stable conditions to work with the wood at 15-17% humidity. The wood is cut and also sanded on the interior of the staves. Watching these guys work is amazing and very noisy. They all work ear protection but in my opinion it isn't enough. They gave us ear plugs to use for the tour but it was still plenty loud.

They start with a metal ring and “mise en rose” or stack the staves in a the ring. They make it look easy but I think it would be hard holding all the pieces together and getting them all to fit. Then they pick up a mallet and anvil and start pounding the rings down further on the barrel. It takes dexterity and strength to hit that thin piece of metal ring and not hit your thumb! The mallets are heavy and they swing them above their head to hit the thin strip. They have to circle the barrel several times and then go to the next ring. During this time they also have to keep all the staves in line on top of the barrel even as well. It really is an art.

Once they get one end of the barrel done it's time to toast the barrel. They have charcoal fires in little chimney's on the ground that they feed with the scrap wood they cut away from the round tops and bottoms they make. There are 5 different levels of toasting for different flavors. They spray the barrels with water to keep the wood pliable. The barrels are rolled around on their rims to move them from place to place. Even that is an art. The barrels are very heavy I can attest to from my work at Snow Farm Winery where I learned to roll them myself.  It's impossible to move with wine in it unless you have a hydraulic lift.

To finish the barrel they use a cable to pull the bottom of the barrel together and put the last rings on. They turn the barrel over and again start with the pounding of the rings to move them lower on the barrel. Somewhere along the line they do put a hole in the side of the barrel for a cork. Then comes the time for sanding which is done with a automated machine. The wood is so beautiful and when all sanded. What a magnificent work of art.


After our visit of the cask fabrication we stopped back at the house for a taste of Cognac. I generally don't like it but that's because I've never really had a good one! And we were served a good one!

Saturday, August 16, 2014

French Laundry - not the restaurant!

Laundry

Laundry is one of those weekly occurrences that the every day person probably doesn't think much about. Well, you can imagine what 5 rooms and two apartments can accumulate. So the idea of 'weekly' doesn't really exist. It's more like daily or even hourly. The mountains of laundry are truly mountains. These mountains are a constant routine of our day.

French washing machines are interesting. They hold quite a bit but take forever to run. The sheets have to be sanitized well so we run a very hot long cycle. The cycle sometimes takes 3 hours depending on the temperament of the machine that day!  (They are supposed to be 90 minutes).  Other laundry can run less time but still is quite long. So you can imagine we always have a load in the machine. It addition to the sheets, pillow cases and breakfast napkins we have lush bath towels and huge pool towels to wash. Don't forget the regular laundry of kitchen towels and our clothes.


Drying is a whole different affair. We have an electric dryer but it takes forever – like 3 hours for a load of towels! So to make the drying time less we put everything out on a clothes line to pre-dry.  Anything we've washed for the guests cannot be totally dry  because they either have to be finished in the dryer or ironed.  So we have to keep a constant eye on the clothesline to check the dryness level. Since sheets have to be ironed they have to have some moisture in them. If left to completely dry they are too hard to iron. Towels are never completely dried either because they need to be softened and fluffed in the drier for 20 minutes. Don't forget we live in a coastal environment so you may see a shower or two during the day. Run for the sheets and take them in. Then put them back out if the sun appears. Everything does smell quite nice though with the sunshine and sea air for drying.

 The clothes line was my idea and was welcomed as their drying rack was extremely limiting.  We finally purchased a clothesline kit.  It works but if we have too much rain or a strong wind, well, it just might decide to collapse!  It just adds to the drama of the day.  Generally it does just fine and we are SO GLAD to have a clothes line.  Things dry quite quickly in the sun and the wind.  

I think I'd rather be at the other French Laundry!!!


Monday, August 11, 2014

Chevre July 25th

Chevre July 25th

Well, I'm sure you all know what chevre is – it's a goat - right! Well, it's also goat cheese and we had the opportunity to make goat cheese from beginning to end. So a trip to the goat farm was on the list for the day. It wasn't a pretty farm and if I was an inspector for cleanliness I would have probably shut the place down. Still the goats looked healthy and were very friendly. In case you were expecting hand milked goats, guess again. The farm had electric milking machines. They goats were all neatly lined up in the stalls and udders where suctioned onto the machines. The milk went directly into a pipeline that went to a large tank for storage. The milk line had a supplemental spigot that the public could access. We brought our own bottles and tapped into the pipe line to fill our bottles.
It's self serve and you could leave your money on the counter or hay stack or in the farmer's hand! I'm thinking it's a good thing the line went directly into the bottles. There were so many flies in the barn it was hard to breathe. The milk was clean and warm though and you can't get much fresher!

We took our cache of milk and headed for home where we started making our own goat cheese. I have made goat cheese in Colorado but they do it a little different here. With the warm goat milk there is no need to heat it so we put the rennet drops in the milk right away and put it in a big pot. Then we let it sit over night where it began to coagulate. The next day we take the curds out of the whey and put it in containers that are full of holes. The curds stay in, the whey washes out. Then we do a process of turning and salting for a couple of days. Et voila – le chevre! It's very easy and boy is it good. You can eat it fresh or age it and add your own seasoning.  I hope to continue making it when I return.


Maaaaaaaahhhh


Mornac Aug 2

Mornac-sur-Seudre is an old fishing and commercial port which today focuses more on oyster farming and the salt produced by its marshes. As you wander through the village, which is a classic example of Charente coastal villages, you will discover its white painted houses with their green or blue shutters that are often hidden by hollyhocks.

Here are a few pictures I took and a website.  It was a charming village just to walk around.  There were lots of artisans selling their wares too.  And if you wanted to get a taste of fresh oysters there was plenty of opportunity to sellect a few to gobble up.  Bon Appetite!

www.mairie-mornac-sur-seudre.f








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